Why Your Oily Skin Actually Needs More Oil

If you have oily skin you’ll know just how much of a struggle it is to keep the shine under control. I’ve tried countless primers and setting powders to try and get my makeup to sit better. But, for the longest time, I was ignoring the root of the issue: my skin itself.

I kind of assumed that the solution to all my problems was to dry my skin out. This definitely did not work, so do not try it haha! As I found out, stripping your skin just leads to more sebum production in the end.

Instead, my oiliness started reducing when I actually started to add a facial oil into my skincare routine. It sounds counterintuitive, but I immediately noticed a change in the texture of my skin. And, for the first time in forever I didn’t have to touch up my makeup throughout the day!

Interested? Here’s why your skin produces as much oil as it does and what you need to know about using face oils on oily skin…

What causes oily skin?

Most of the time oily skin is caused by a combination of factors. And, no two cases are the same. What causes your oily skin might not be the same thing that provokes someone else’s. With that in mind, let’s take a look at the potential reasons why your skin may be producing excess sebum…

1. Over-washing and over-exfoliating

You’re probably scratching your head right now. Surely with oily skin you want to make sure your skin is as clean a possible? But the purpose of washing your face is not to get rid of all oils, it’s just to remove any dirt or debris that might have built up. Over-cleansing can cause your skin to dry out and, because of this, it overcompensates by producing even more oil. So, it’s best to stick to washing just twice a day: once in the morning, and once in the evening.

2. Under-washing

Yep, under-washing can also make your skin oily. We just can’t win!

Leaving oil to sit and build up on the surface of your skin is a sure fire way to cause not just shininess, but breakouts and clogged pores too. As long as you’re rinsing your face everyday you should be fine!

3. Forgetting to moisturise

As with over-washing, if you forget to moisturise your skin is going to start overproducing oils in order to protect itself. Make sure to apply your moisturiser, morning and night, on damp skin so that it traps in as much water as possible. This is the best way to keep your skin hydrated!

4. Weather

People who live in warmer climates will likely find that their skin gets oilier throughout the day. This is because humidity encourages the sebaceous glands to produce more oil.

Unfortunately, you can probably guess what extreme cold weather does to the skin … it also causes excess sebum production. Dryness is, ironically, what you really want to avoid if you’re trying to keep the shininess at bay.

5. Genetics

This might not be a comfort to everyone, but our skin type is also predetermined by genetics. If your parents have oily skin, the chances are that you’ll have this trait too.

6. Hormonal fluctuations

Androgens are hormones that have been proven to affect sebum production. Your skin will get noticeably oilier at times when androgen levels are at their peak, for example, during puberty, during pregnancy or even during your menstrual cycle.

Can I use face oils on oily skin?

The idea that you can’t put oil on an already oily face is probably one of the biggest beauty misconceptions. People tend to assume oil (or sebum) is a bad thing, but actually this is the very substance that keeps our skin protected. In order for our skin barrier to function properly, we need a certain amount of sebum to 1) stop moisture from escaping and 2) defend our skin from external contaminants.

Of course, that doesn’t mean we should let our skin continue to produce tonnes of oil. This can cause problems too. We just need to find a way to regulate it.

It seems weird to think that adding more oil into our routine can actually reduce the amount of sebum we produce. But, certain (non-comedogenic) oils have the ability to balance natural oil levels and help rehydrate the skin.

Which oils are suitable for oily skin?

The main thing to check when choosing a facial oil is its comedogenic rating i.e. how likely it is to clog your pores. For oily skin, and tbh even other skin types, it’s best to go for something that sits between 0 and 2. Any more than that and the risk of breaking out greatly increases.

You’ll also want to pick an oil that’s lightweight and doesn’t feel greasy on the skin. Smothering your face in a thick, buttery substance is really going to make it difficult for your skin to breathe.

The facial oils that are generally recommended for combination-oily skin are:

• Jojoba oil
• Rosehip oil
• Squalane
• Marula oil
• Argan oil
• Borage oil
• Hemp seed oil

Which facial oils should I avoid?

Though lots of people swear by putting coconut oil on their skin, it is considered comedogenic (level 4!) so I personally wouldn’t use it. If your skin isn’t reactive or acne-prone it might work for you, I just think there are so many great alternatives that it doesn’t seem worth the risk!

Tea tree oil is another oil that many recommend and, while it is low on the comedogenic scale, I would be careful using it. Since it is quite strong, it can’t be applied directly onto the skin. You need to dilute it with a carrier oil to make sure it doesn’t irritate your face. I would view it as an addition to your everyday facial oil, rather than an oil that can be used on its own.

Tips for using your oil:

1. Apply in the evening – Start out by applying your oil just once a day and, if you feel your skin gets on with it, then you can try using it in the morning too. Your skin goes into ‘healing mode’ and produces less sebum when you sleep, so this is when the oil is going to have the biggest effect.
2. Use sparingly – You only really need a couple of drops for the oil to do its thing. If you apply too much it will feel uncomfortably heavy on the skin.
3. Pat it into your skin – Patting the oil onto your face, rather than rubbing it, minimises the amount your skin is being pulled. It also ensures that the coverage is lighter and more even.
4. Make sure it comes last – Always apply your oil the end of your skincare routine. Most facial oils are occlusives, meaning they create a waterproof seal over your skin. Putting other ingredients over the top of this coating is pretty much pointless as they won’t be able to break through and reach the skin’s surface.
5. Add it to your moisturiser – If an oil feels too heavy on your skin, try mixing it in with your everyday moisturiser. You’ll still get the benefits of the oil, just without so much of the greasiness.

My final thoughts

Since using a facial oil every night, I’ve noticed such a difference in my skin. In the past I always avoided oils because I thought, with oily skin, I didn’t need them. However, I think this oiliness was just masking the dryness that was underneath.

I actually realised that my face needed waaaay more moisture than I was giving it. This was probably because I’d been stripping it of its natural oils in order to reduce some of the shine.

I definitely recommend using a face oil at night. You’ll be amazed to see just how much it helps control sebum production and reduces inflammation!

I hope this post was helpful and provided some insight into which oils should and shouldn’t be used on oily skin. If you enjoyed reading it, be sure to check out this article on how to repair your damaged skin barrier.