What is double cleansing and why should you do it?
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Ever used a toner pad before bed and realised you haven’t removed your makeup quite as well as you thought? Or woken up with panda eyes in the morning because you’re still (unknowingly) wearing yesterday’s mascara?
It’s not for lack of trying that the makeup’s still there – it all comes down to technique. And that’s where double cleansing comes in.
While it’s gained a lot of popularity in the west in recent years, double cleansing isn’t just a passing skincare trend. It originated in 14th century Asia, and managed to stand the test of time, eventually becoming a key part of the modern 10-step Korean skincare routine.
Don’t start panicking just yet, though, we’ll only be focusing on the two-step cleansing portion of this routine. Forget about all the other toners, essences and serums for a minute!
I’ll be breaking down exactly what double cleansing is, why it’s important, and how to do it properly. If you’re looking for fresh, glowing, makeup-free skin, keep reading!
What is double cleansing?
Double cleansing, or two-step cleansing, might sound like a simple concept. It’s just cleansing your face twice, right? How hard can it be?
At a basic level, that’s true. But there’s actually a little more to it than that.
Double cleansing involves using two different types of cleanser to get rid of dirt, oil and makeup:
- An oil-based cleanser – to remove sunscreen, makeup and excess sebum
- A water-based cleanser – to remove dirt, sweat and any other impurities
Why do you need to double cleanse?
Oil-based and water-based cleansers each have a different purpose, and both are needed for a thorough cleanse.
A quick rinse with a water-based cleanser, for example, isn’t going to be enough to break down oil-soluble products, such as sunscreen or foundation. These products don’t tend to dissolve in water, so you really want to be using an oil cleanser beforehand to make sure no residue is left behind.
How to tell the difference between an oil-based and water-based cleanser
It’s not always easy to figure out which type of cleanser is which. If you’re confused, there are a few key things (like texture, ingredients, makeup breakdown efficiency) you can look out for.
I’ll be using the Beauty of Joseon Deep Double Cleansing Duo (10% discount code: THESUMMERSTUDY) as an example to illustrate how you can tell oil and water-based cleansers apart.
? Oil-based cleansers
Oil-based cleansers will usually take the form of an oil, balm or milk. They’ll have a lot of slip to them and – you guessed it – an oily feel.
These types of cleansers tend to be packed with emollient oils (like Soybean Oil, Jojoba Oil and Olive Oil) which help dissolve oil-based impurities.
Another key giveaway that you’ve got an oil cleanser on your hands (literally), is that it will emulsify into a milk when you add water. Take a look and see what happens to the Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil when I mix in a few drops of water:
? Water-based cleansers
Water-based cleansers will usually have a gel or foam texture. They’ll feel closer to a soap or a body wash than anything else.
The easiest way to spot a water-based cleanser is by checking the ingredients list – a quick glance and you’ll see that water is right at the top.
When you add extra water, water-based cleansers will generally produce a lather, though there are water-based cleansers (like the CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser) which are non-foaming. See what happens when I add water to the Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Cleanser:
When (and how often) should you double cleanse?
If a two-step cleansing routine sounds a little time-consuming, don’t worry, you only have to do it once a day.
The purpose of double cleansing is to melt away all the dirt and grime that’s built up on your skin throughout the day, so you only need to wash your face twice at night.
In the morning, you can simply cleanse once, using your regular water-based cleanser. Super quick.
Who needs to double cleanse?
If you’re wearing sunscreen or makeup during the day, it’s a good idea to double cleanse at night. This makes sure that you’ve got a fresh base to apply your skincare to.
If you’re not wearing makeup or sunscreen (though I highly suggest you do!), you may not need to double cleanse in the evening. Exceptions might be if your skin feels very oily / congested, or if you live in a city with high pollution levels.
What are the benefits of double cleansing?
We know that double cleansing is the most effective way of removing oil, dirt and impurities from the skin. Here’s what else it can do:
- Prevent clogged pores and spots: A build-up of oil and makeup on your skin can trigger breakouts. By cleansing twice, you’re minimising your risk of any unwanted surprises.
- Allow skincare products to absorb better: Toners, essences and serums absorb more efficiently into clean skin. If there’s a barrier in the way, your skincare won’t be able to do its job.
- Brighten tired-looking skin: If you’re not leaving traces of makeup behind, your skin tone will look less dull and more even.
Your step-by-step guide to double cleansing
Now we know that double cleansing has two main phases, here’s how to do it properly:
Step 1: Applying your oil-based cleanser
- Make sure your hands and face are dry
- Take a pump of your cleansing oil, or a small scoop of your cleansing balm, and massage it into your face for a minute or two. You’ll quickly start to see the makeup breaking down.
- Use your hands to wash everything off your face. The oil cleanser will emulsify making it easy to rinse off without any scrubbing.
- Alternatively, take a damp, reusable cotton round or a damp face towel and gentle wipe any residue away – this is my preferred method!
Step 2: Applying your water-based cleanser
- Dispense a pea-sized amount of your gel or foam cleanser into your hands.
- Rub your hands together to create a lather – I find it easier (and gentler) to this before I apply the cleanser to my face
- Massage the water-based cleanser into your skin for about 30-60 seconds
- Rinse off with water
How to choose the right cleansers
There are no right or wrong choices when it comes to picking your double cleansing duo, you’ll just want to look for products that suit your skin type and your budget. Here are some of my top picks:
Oil-based cleansers
- Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm – A bit pricey, but worth the spend, in my opinion. This melts into the skin like butter and smells just like a spa.
- Junoco Clean 10 Cleansing Balm – A mid-priced cleanser that gives the Elemis one a run for its money.
- Pai Light Work Cleansing Oil – A slightly thicker cleansing oil, I like this one because it’s not as messy as the runnier ones.
Water-based cleansers
- Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturising Cleanser – A gentle, non-foaming option for sensitive skin.
- ROUND LAB’s 1025 Dokdo Cleanser – A slightly acidic (pH 5.0 – 6.0) foam which thoroughly cleanses the skin without drying it out.
- Byoma Creamy Jelly Gel Cleanser – Super affordable and kind on the skin.
