A Simple Introduction To Retinoids

This is not a sponsored post, but some of the products talked about have been gifted.

Dermatica recently reached out to me to see if I would be interested in trying their personalised skincare programme. The main active ingredient in most of their formulas (except the rosacea one) is either adapalene or tretinoin – both of which are retinoids.

Although I’ve been using retinols for a little while, I’m completely new to prescription-strength retinoids. I was a little apprehensive about starting the treatment so I decided to do some research first, just to make sure I was using the lotion in the right way.

Having spent aaaages trawling through countless websites and online journals, I felt like it would be really useful to gather all this info it one place just in case any of you are in the same boat! So here’s everything you need to know about retinoids…

Disclaimer: I’m not an expert, these are just some of the questions I wish I had answers to when I first started my retinoid journey. If you are seriously considering incorporating retinoids into your skincare routine, make sure to speak to a doctor or dermatologist first.

What are retinoids?

Retinoids are a group of vitamin A derivatives that are used in the treatment of various skin concerns like acne, hyperpigmentation and psoriasis. They have also been shown to possess anti-ageing benefits.

Retinoids can be classified into four generations:

• 1st generation: retinol, retinal, tretinoin, isotretinoin, alitretinoin
• 2nd generation: etretinate, acitretin
• 3rd generation: adapalene, bexarotene, and tazarotene
• 4th generation: trifarotene

Retinol, tretinoin, tazarotene and adapalene are the most common forms of topical retinoid.

What’s the difference between retinoids and retinol?

Despite popular belief, retinoids and retinol are not the same thing. Retinol is actually a type of retinoid that’s commonly found in non-prescription products.

For retinols to work they need to first be converted into retinoic acid by the enzymes in the skin. This usually takes a while, so it may take months to see results from your high-street retinol products. However, because they are weaker, they tend to cause less irritation than prescription-strength retinoids.

How do retinoids work?

There’s a common misconception that retinoids work in the same way as exfoliants – by removing dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. While this may be true for some retinols, in all actuality the impact is much greater.

Retinoids penetrate deep underneath the epidermis to improve your skin from the inside out. They prevent the breakdown of collagen, while at the same time encouraging your skin to produce more collagen and elastin.

Retinoids also increase the rate of skin cell turnover meaning that pores are less likely to clog and turn into larger lesions.

What are the benefits of using retinoids?

There’s a reason why retinoids are so revered in the skincare world. They have been proven to have amazing benefits for your skin, like:

• Stimulating collagen production
• Improving skin elasticity
• Reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Fading dark spots and hyperpigmentation
• Minimising pores
• Reducing the occurrence of acne lesions and breakouts

Can I buy retinoids over-the-counter?

No matter where you are in the world, you’ll probably find that many retinoids are prescription only. In the US, the third-generation retinoid adapalene (usually under the brand name Differin) can be bought over-the-counter. In the UK, Differin still requires a prescription from your GP or dermatologist.

As mentioned above, weaker retinoid forms – like retinols – often don’t need a prescription and you can find these in some of your favourite beauty stores.

What are the side effects of using retinol?

The main side effect people tend to experience when using retinoids is irritation – especially with the prescription types. You may notice redness, dryness and flaking, though these are likely to disappear with regular use.

If you’re worried about the side effects or feel serious discomfort, speak to your dermatologist.

What products/ingredients can’t be used with retinoids?

It is generally recommended that you refrain from using AHAs and BHAs at the same time as retinoids. You also shouldn’t mix retinoids and benzoyl peroxide, since BP reduces the efficacy of retinoid products.

On a more positive note, peptides, ceramides and hyaluronic acid are great for combining with retinoids as they counteract the drying, irritating side effects brought on by retinoid use.

Are retinoids safe?

If you follow the advice given by your doctor or dermatologist, adding retinoids to your skincare routine shouldn’t be a cause for concern.

There are, however, circumstances where you should be careful with – or perhaps even refrain from using – retinoids. You should avoid retinoids if:

1. You’re pregnant or think you might be pregnant – While there is not a huge amount of evidence to show that topical retinoids have negative effects if used during pregnancy, most doctors still advise against using them. Oral retinoids, on the other hand, should never be used during pregnancy.
2. You’re constantly exposed to sunlight – Retinoids break down in sunlight so wearing a retinoid serum in the sun will make it less effective. Photosensitivity – while not guaranteed – is a possibility, so it’s best to wear sunscreen whenever you do go out into the sun.
3. You have extremely sensitive or dry skin – Irritation is a common side effect of retinoid use. If your skin is already very sensitive, adding retinoids into your routine is likely to exaggerate these issues.

Quick tips for using retinoids

1. Do a patch test before properly applying
2. Start slow to let your skin acclimate
3. Always wear sunscreen
4. Be generous with your moisturiser
5. Apply in the evening
6. Use the product sparingly

References

Azulay, David Rubem, and Dâmia Leal Vendramini. “Retinoids”. Daily Routine In Cosmetic Dermatology, 2016, pp. 1-16. Springer International Publishing.

Bozzo, Pina et al. “Safety of skin care products during pregnancy.” Canadian family physician Medecin de famille canadien vol. 57,6 (2011): 665-7.

Joseph, Garyk, and Robin Marks. “Letters To The Editor: Topical Retinoids And Photosensitivity”. Australian Prescriber, vol 22, no. 4, 1999, pp. 75-77. NPS Medicinewise.