The Best Active Ingredients For Sensitive Skin

If you’re interested in skincare, ‘active ingredient’ is probably a term you’ve heard thrown around quite a bit. In fact, many of the beauty products that you use everyday contain ‘actives’ like retinol, benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid etc. But, as you have perhaps already discovered, not all of these active ingredients are suitable for sensitive skin.

So which actives are best for reactive skin? And which ones protect the skin while still delivering great results? Keep reading to find out.

What is an active ingredient?

Active ingredients (in skincare) are the components of a product that are designed to target or treat a specific skin concern. In other words, these are the ingredients that perform a particular function to achieve a particular end result.

Say, for example, you buy a face wash containing salicylic acid – like the CeraVe SA Smoothing Cleanser. The salicylic acid is the active ingredient, as this is what carries out the main function of the product i.e. unclogging pores and exfoliating the skin.

A product may have one active ingredient or many. And the percentage of these actives will most likely vary from product to product too.

You will also find that some active ingredients are more potent than others. That’s why it’s so important to choose the right ones for your skin type (or current skin state).

Which active ingredients are most suited to sensitive skin?

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

Polyhydroxy acids are chemical exfoliants, just like AHAs and BHAs. However, since they have a larger molecule size and penetrate less deeply into the skin, these are far more gentle.

PHAs are also humectants so they have the added benefit of attracting and trapping moisture. This makes them ideal for those with dry or irritated skin, or those who suffer with skin conditions like eczema or rosacea.

My go-to PHA product is the Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow PHA + BHA Pore-Tight Toner. It brightens and decongests the skin without making it sore or sensitive at all.

The Inkey List 3% PHA Toner is another great option. It’s really effective, yet still super gentle. If you have particularly reactive skin, you’re going to love this!

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3. It’s hailed for its ability to minimise enlarged pores, brighten skin and strengthen the moisture barrier.

Due its anti-inflammatory properties, niacinamide has been shown to also calm redness and reduce the appearance of acne scars.

My top choices in this category are The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% and The Inkey List Niacinamide. Both of these have a fairly low concentration of the active ingredient so they’re even less likely to cause any adverse reactions.

Hyaluronic Acid (HA)

Hyaluronic acid is the active ingredient of the moment, you’ll find it in nearly everything! In basic terms, HA is a carbohydrate molecule that’s naturally produced by the skin – although the stuff we find in skincare is a synthetic version.

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant with amazing capabilities. It’s said to hold around 50x its weight in water, so just imagine how much moisture it helps your skin retain!

My favourites are The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 and the Hada Labo Gokujyun Hyaluronic Acid Lotion.

Vitamin E

Like HA, vitamin E is a naturally-occurring component that’s found in the skin. In beauty products, you’ll usually find it under the name tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate.

Vitamin E is an antioxidant, meaning that it defends your cells from free radicals and helps prevent cell damage. It’s also super moisturising and has been known to aid wound healing so this is for sure an active ingredient your sensitive skin will love!

The Body Shop vitamin E range is always a good place to start if you’re looking to incorporate this active into your skincare routine. The UpCircle Face Moisturiser with Argan Powder is also a winner.

Ceramides

Ceramides are lipids that are naturally found in the outermost layer of the skin i.e. the epidermis. They basically act as the ‘glue’ between skin cells, forming a tight seal and helping protect against external contaminants.

This active ingredient is great for providing moisture, reducing signs of ageing and restoring the skin barrier. It also improves skin tone, making it feel more firm and plump.

These are the ceramide-containing skincare products I recommend checking out:

• CeraVe Moisturising Cream
• Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream
• The Inkey List Ceramide Night Treatment
• COSRX Balancium Comfort Ceramide Cream

Peptides

Peptides are amino acids that help stimulate the production of elastin, collagen and keratin in our skin. Adding peptide-rich products into our routine means that we’re reinforcing the proteins that are already working to make our skin feel soft and supple.

Peptides also have a number of extra benefits, like smoothing wrinkles and increasing skin elasticity. If you’re looking for an active ingredient that gives your sensitive skin a moisture boost, this is it!

The Paula’s Choice Peptide Booster is one of my fave peptide products, as is the Q+A Peptide Facial Serum.

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is one of my all-time favourite active ingredients. It’s naturally found in grains like wheat, barley, etc. but – as with HA – the kind we use is largely synthetic.

This ingredient has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties so it’s great for fighting acne. It also fades hyperpigmentation and unclogs pores without causing any irritation or sensitivity.

I’m a big fan of The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%. The Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is another solid choice.

Which of these active ingredients do you love using on your sensitive skin? Or which ones do you want to try? Let me know in the comments.