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I’m sure everyone’s been there. You’re finally happy with your beauty regimen, your skin is glowing … then, out of nowhere, it starts to get really dry and red. You’ve been using all the right products, so why the sudden reaction? Well … it might just be that you’ve damaged your skin barrier.
What exactly is a skin barrier + why is it so important?
Generally speaking, our skin is made up of three individual layers which each have their own function. At the very top, closest to the surface, we have the epidermis. The epidermis can be split up into another five smaller parts, the stratum corneum being the outermost layer.
‘Skin barrier’ or ‘moisture barrier’ is just a simple way of referring to the stratum corneum. We’re essentially talking about the most superficial layer of our skin, the part that offers protection from external pollutants, contaminants and irritants.
If our skin barrier becomes damaged, it is unable to perform its usual function and so our skin starts to feel sore and irritated. This is when we need to take action!
What impairs our skin barrier?
Our skin barrier is more delicate than we think and can be weakened by a number of different things. Environmental factors definitely play a part in the condition of our skin, but a lot of the time the damage done to our moisture barrier is self-inflicted.
By trying to perfect our skin, we often overcompensate and end up making a tonne of skincare mistakes. Things like over-washing, over-exfoliating and piling on strong active ingredients can seriously strip away moisture and damage this protective layer.
Signs that the skin barrier might be damaged:
- Increased sensitivity
- Extreme dryness or tightness
- Redness
- Unexplained breakouts or acne flare-ups
- Dull or rough skin
- Stinging when skincare products are applied
How can you repair your skin barrier?
Repairing the skin barrier may take a little time, but it’s definitely doable. Follow the steps below and you’ll see improvements in no time.
1. Change your cleanser
The first step in repairing your skin barrier is to simplify your skincare routine. If your daily cleanser contains AHAs/BHAs, like glycolic acid or salicylic acid, you should consider swapping these out for a gentler, creamier facial wash.
Your skin shouldn’t feel tight or uncomfortable after cleansing, so if you do notice this, it’s definitely a sign that your face needs moisture. It might even be worth choosing a face wash that’s targeted towards sensitive skin as this will likely be way less drying.
The CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser is, in my opinion. the best for dry, damaged skin. It thoroughly cleans the face without being too harsh or abrasive. 10/10.
2. Wash with lukewarm water
Using hot, or even cold, water to wash your face can cause unnecessary irritation. Too hot and you’re stripping the skin of essential oils; too cold and you’re not effectively removing grease and dirt from your pores. It’s best to go for the middle ground.
3. Cut back on actives and exfoliants
It’s constantly being drilled into us that we should be using a Vitamin C serum in the morning and a retinoid at night. This is perfectly good advice … except hardly anybody mentions how long it takes for your skin to get used to these ingredients.
If you jump right in and start applying them everyday, you’re bound to notice an adverse reaction. These actives are extremely drying when used too often. Add them into your routine slowly and try not to layer them on top of each other. This is a surefire way to cause irritation – trust me, I’ve been there.
The same also goes for chemical exfoliants. Make sure to space out your use of them, and if you notice dryness or redness take a break from using them for a while.
4. Look out for hydrating ingredients
The key to repairing your damaged skin barrier is to use the right ingredients. Just because a product is thick and creamy doesn’t necessarily mean it’ll be moisturising on the skin, there are many lightweight lotions that have immense hydration potential. Here are just a few things you should look out for:
- Ceramides
- Hyaluronic acid
- Niacinamide
- Squalane
- Glycerin
- Panthenol
- Petrolatum
5. Use plant-derived oils
Plant oils are probably the first thing I turn to when I notice my skin getting drier. These are a super effective way of locking in moisture. Here are some of my faves:
- Rosehip oil
- Sunflower oil
- Jojoba oil
- Grapeseed oil
Some people recommend using coconut oil on the face and, while it’s great for moisturising the skin, it can also clog pores. So I would try to steer clear of this one.
If you’re interested in finding out more about how plant oils can improve your skin, take a read of this post.
6. Try a skin salve
When all else fails, skin salves are always there to save the day. They give you all the benefits of the plant oils mentioned above, just in the form of a balm or cream.
Before I go to bed, I usually apply a salve to any dry patches I might have – it works best over the top of moisturiser – and in the morning all the discomfort is gone.
For an affordable option, I would recommend the Weleda Skin Food. And, for those with a little more to spend, I’d suggest the Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream. They’re very different in terms of scent and consistency, but they both work great.
7. Wear SPF
Slathering yourself in sunscreen is starting to feel like it’s the solution to everything! Not only does it protect your skin against nature’s biggest drying agent, the sun, it also moisturises at the same time. Win-win!
How long does it take to repair a damaged skin barrier?
Your skin’s recovery time will usually depend on the extent of the damage. If you’ve managed to catch the irritation at an early stage, your moisture barrier will be able to repair itself more quickly. In general, it takes about 2-4 weeks for the skin’s barrier to resume its normal function, and even longer than that for it to fully heal.
Phew, that was a lot of info! To save you some time, here’s a summary of the key dos and don’ts that you can pin for later.
For more information on how to take care of your skin and how to avoid damaging the moisture barrier, check out the 7 Skincare Mistakes You Don’t Even Know You’re Making.
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